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Are you looking for a beautiful, reasonably priced bungalow in the South Caribbean beach town of Puerto Viejo? Here it is – at the edge, where the jungle meets the sea, a place where the imaginatively painted road signs proclaim its calmness and serenity, where you can listen to the music of the ocean’s waves and enjoy the early morning concert of the birds, letting you know that a new day has begun.

La Costa de Papito cabins, built in an exuberant, two-hectare jungle garden, provide the traveler with all amenities of civilization, at a very good price ($30–$50 year-round, depending on the style of the bungalow, breakfast optional).

Two km south of the town’s center, directly across from the pristine Cocles Beach, the eight individually designed bungalows are trimmed in gingerbread style. All are airy, comfortable units with queen-size beds, overhead fans and suitable, delightfully designed bathrooms. Spacious porches, equipped with hammocks and hard wooden tables and benches, are placed in such a way that allows each cabin’s occupants a private atmosphere.

As an especially attentive gesture, the hotel’s staff will serve breakfast on your veranda or, should you prefer, in the main dining area. In the hotel’s bilingual information booklet, displayed in each cabin, guests will find the breakfast menu and a detailed form to request their choices.

For $4 per person, available between 7 a.m. to 10 a.m., three opulent selections are offered. Traditional gallo pinto (rice and beans), with eggs any style, served with fresh fruit and a hot johnnycake, provides a typical Caribbean flair. Homemade pancakes, light and fluffy, are best for the sweet tooth. The huge bowl of granola, mixed with raisins, nuts, honey, milk and fruit, ensures energy for an adventurous day at the beach or in the jungle.

"Most people opt for our room-service," says owner Eddie Ryan, who has been operating La Costa de Papito for eight years now.

Originally from New York City, Ryan managed the unique Carlton Arms Hotel for 11 years. This experienced host is a long-time resident of the South Caribbean and an excellent connoisseur of the area.

"I have traveled the world, but for me it is the most beautiful place I have ever seen," he confesses. "You live a little closer to the edge, but that suits me fine, coming from New York."

Activities abound in this natural wonderland, where hand-painted road signs boast of successful opposition to the offshore oil exploitation. Visits to indigenous reserves in the Talamanca mountains, to Finca La Isla Botanical Gardens or guided walks through the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge are a few of the options.

In the two-story main house of La Costa de Papito, guests will find information panels about the history of the South Caribbean, together with an album, including suggestions for tours and on-going events; and last but not least, an elaborate list of restaurant recommendations for "Papito" (Little Father) to impress his partner at dinner.

TUI, the largest European travel operator, now offers tour expeditions into the South Caribbean. La Costa de Papito was chosen as a host for the first guests, visiting from Holland in November, 2002.

Ryan says sustainable tourism is provided by the people of the area and based on local community efforts to maintain a low negative impact on the environment, the social and cultural settings, with a positive contribution to the inhabitants.

"Otherwise, we would have a Disneyland here," he says.

As a member of the local tourism chamber, Ryan is involved in a community lifeguard project. By June, the first lifeguard stand in the South Caribbean was installed at the most-visited Cocles Beach. Safety in the entire area also has remarkably improved thanks to vehicles and man-power, provided by the government. Based on data from the Security Ministry, Ryan knows that "in the last two years, Puerto Viejo has become the safest beach community in Costa Rica."

For more information, call La Costa de Papito, at: (506) 2750-0080, e-mail: costapapito@yahoo.com or visit the Web site: www.lacostadepapito.com

By Car: From San José: It takes about three and a half hours to get to Puerto Viejo. Take the Inter-American highway to Limón, turn south on the coastal highway, always bearing left.

By Bus: Buses leave the Gran Terminal al Caribe, Ca. Central, at 6 and 10 a.m., 1:30 and 3:30. Call Transportes Mepe (257-8129).